Destination: Fairbanks, Alaska

Located 358 miles north of Anchorage, Fairbanks is at the end of the Alaska Highway from Canada and definitely at the end of the road for most tourists. Though flat and somewhat bland, its central location makes a great base for exploring a hinterland of gold mines and hot springs, and a staging point for both the tiny villages scattered around the surrounding wilderness and for journeys along the Dalton Highway (aka the "Haul Road") to the Arctic Ocean oil community of Prudhoe Bay.

The aurora borealis, or "Northern Lights," an ethereal display of light in the uppermost atmosphere, give their brightest and most colorful displays in the sky above Fairbanks. For up to one hundred winter nights, the sky appears to shimmer with dancing curtains of color ranging from luminescent greens to fantastic veils that run the full spectrum. Named after the Roman goddess of dawn, the aurora are caused by an interaction between the earth's magnetic field and the solar wind, an invisible stream of charged electrons and protons continually blown out into space by the innate violence of the sun.

The Northern Lights are at their most dazzling from December to March, when nights are longest and the sky darkest, but late September can be good for summer visitors.

Fairbanks' eating options are varied, with good Thai particularly prevalent. They're also well scattered, with downtown and College Road, toward the university, having the greatest concentrations. Here's a sampling of what's offered:

• Blue Loon Mile 353.5 Parks Highway, (907/457-5666). Late-closing hotspot five miles west of Fairbanks that's always good for a convivial drink. Hosts local and touring bands (sometimes a DJ) several nights a week, and screens cult and art-house movies. Closed Sundays.

• Gambardella's Pasta Bella 3525 College Road, (907/474-9574). Pleasant spot above a bookstore, serving chicken tarragon wraps, pesto turkey melts, bagels, biscotti and coffee all at reasonable prices. Also offers free internet access.

• Howling Dog Saloon Mile 11 Old Steese Highway, Fox, (907/457-8780). An inconvenient eleven miles north of town, but perhaps the best bar in the north – unassuming, unpretentious and fun. Live rock and R&B bands perform and it's the ideal place to play volleyball under the midnight sun.

• Pump House Mile 1.3 Chena Pump Road, (907/479-8452). A local favorite in a historic pumphouse, stuffed with gold mining paraphernalia and set by the Chena River with a deck to watch river life go by. Great for steak, seafood and burgers, and also pulls in a substantial drinking crowd.

• Thai House 526 5th Avenue, downtown, (907/452-6123). A small but ever-popular restaurant serving the usual range of Thai dishes, but all done to perfection and at very modest prices for around $9. The green and red curries with zucchini, peas and peppers are especially good. Closed Sundays.

For information on hot springs in and around Fairbanks, click here.

For information on hotels in Fairbanks, click here.

Previous Destinations:

• Japan

• The Bahamas

• Zurich, Switzerland

• Fairbanks, Alaska

• San Diego, California